Trailer Update

As recounted in our trip to Denver blog post, the original Fulton coupler on the trailer failed to hold the hitch ball securely and the trailer popped off the hitch during a rough railroad crossing. I have a suspicion as to what caused the coupler to fail. Further investigation is required. In the meantime,  I resolved to make a new coupler that would be more reliable.

The criteria for the new coupler: it must provide a reliable attachment to the truck; it must be attached to the trailer in a way that would be secure without altering the existing draw bars or casting; it must allow easy removal so that the original coupler could be reinstalled in the future if desired.

I had seen a design on the internet that met my criteria and seemed within my skill set to build.

I bought some supplies including a 2 inch receiver tube 18 inches long and a standard 2 inch straight coupler. I decided to change coupler ball size from 1 7/8 inches to the more common 2 inch ball. I had some 2 inch steel tube left over from the spare tire project.

Here is what I came up with:

I started by cutting the top and bottom out of the receiver tube for about 8 inches of length to make two wings. I fired up the torch and heated the tube to bend the wings to match the angle of the drawbars. After a few test fits, I was satisfied. I measured the locations of the existing holes in the drawbars and casting and transferred the measurements to the tube for drilling. The large hole for the main bolt holding the coupler and the safety chain brackets was a challenge as the hole needed to be at an angle to the coupler wings. A bit of grinding with the dremel tool was needed to make it all fit together.

The rest of the project consisted of painting and bolting parts together. I am happy with how it all turned out.

Bending the wings after cutting the top and bottom out of the tube.

Test fitting after drilling the holes

Side view

Top view testing the fit of the new coupler

Painting all the parts

View of finished coupler.

The trailer at right angles to the truck- useful when camping.

While I had the torch out and the drawbar casting removed, I decided to fix the damage to the landing leg pivot caused when the trailer disconnected from the truck. I cleaned up the damaged part with the grinder and welded some steel back to where it had been scrubbed off by the pavement. A bit of grinding returned the piece more or less to its original shape. Once primed and painted and back on the trailer, the repair is not noticeable.

View of repaired pivot casting.

The other side of the repaired casting.

 

Edit for new extended tow bar (edited 9/5/22):

One of the advantages of the new coupler set up is the ability to switch out different couplers and tow bars. For instance, I have considered making a pintle hitch set-up for off-road towing. 

I had always intended to make an extended tow bar to enable carrying longer canoes on the trailer. I had some tubing left over from the spare tire bracket project which was perfect for my needs. I attached a new coupler to the tubing, drilled hole for the retaining pin and attached some chains. I had to make an extension for the wiring harness. I painted the finished tow bar to match the trailer. 

New longer tow bar

 

Trailer with canoe and longer tow bar

Short tow bar with coupler removed. I also added an ammo box to store chocks and straps.

Now I have a choice for which tow bar to use. I like the short tow bar for most towing but the longer one works better for carrying canoes. It is also slightly easier to back the trailer up with the longer bar, but I have learned to back up with either set-up. Backing up is made much easier with a capable spotter since, with the camper on the truck, I can't see the trailer with either bar until it has turned significantly. Finally, I can easily remove either tow bar with the chains when I leave the trailer parked, making it somewhat more difficult for someone to tow in away in my absence.